Tasting Note: Eggs Benedict at Ettore's - Deconstruction of a Dish.

Ettore's has been around for 25 years this year, a milestone by anyone's standards, and there are some things that they do well (princess cake, brioche rolls, cheeseburgers - as showcased in Blair Anthony Robertson's SacBee article), somethings not so well (pre-cut cakes in a cold case leading to oxidation and at $3.75 a slice that's slightly underwhelming - even with their attempts with a plastic signage cover), and somethings that they do exceptionally well. Egg's Benedict.
Now this is a serious contemplation for some and a non-starter for others. But for those who really enjoy a great Egg's Benedict they know what to look for. Ettore's has the best Egg's Benedict that I've ever had, and I've had more than a few. But there are specific reasons, this is not an arbitrary exploration into a breakfast item. It comes down to Hollandaise, poached eggs, and bread choice; now you'll notice that I didn't comment on the Canadian bacon vs. crab cake vs. bacon vs. salmon for the in-between protein, and as long as they are from fresh ingredients I really don't think it matters, because the other 3 make or break the dish.

Hollandaise: this is not only a tasting issue, but a food safety one as well. Hollandaise needs to be made immediately before application to the dish, but many places hold it over for hours where it's kept at the perfect temperature to grow bacteria. Appetizing right? Well thankfully Ettore's is soo busy on the weekends that it's hard to even get a table, much less worry about the Hollandaise going bad. It's perfectly creamy, not separated (important) and is wonderful on eggs as well as the little potatoes that come with the dish. If you've ever had bottled Hollandaise you know what disappointment tastes like, and it's served at quite a few places because they are not catering to a strictly breakfast crowd. It's always discernible and disgusting.

Poached Egg: This is also a failing point for many establishments, but can make the ones that do it right shine. It's a simple but time consuming (compared to doing it wrong) technique that involves boiling water, rice vinegar and a slotted spoon. For someone who does it hundreds of times a day back in the kitchen it's no big thing, but when prepared wrong is loose runny egg white that is also a food safety issue, and is all over the plate when served. When prepared correctly the egg white will be somewhat tight, as if a small purse, and the center will be soft to the touch, but when sliced into is slightly soft boiled, which increases as it rests.

Bread Choice: This is also a sticking point, some places choose English muffins, crumpets, focaccia, and I've even seen small Ciabatta rolls, but the best versions are with Brioche. This is the end game of genius at Ettore's for this dish. Brioche, an egg butter bread, is soft, spongy and luscious in flavor and is a wonderful compliment to this dish. Hopefully this will be taken as a hint to others and improve their versions of egg's Benedict, I only say this because there is nothing worse than having a great Eggs Benedict visually then attempting to saw through a bad bread choice and having your meal all over your plate.

(optional discrimination)
Garnish: Now this might seem like an insignificant detail, but you'd be surprised how it can go badly at this point, I've had Lawry's seasoning salt (yes, you read that right) sprinkled on top as a garnish? Revolting. I really hope this practice has discontinued at Rio City Cafe, as I haven't eaten their since. Something traditional like chives is preferred, but nothing is worse than a meat seasoning, so don't be afraid to be discriminating at this point, it could ruin your entire meal.



Here's hoping that Egg's Benedict becomes as important and lauded as it is on the East coast, because there is such potential for standouts like Ettore's!