What is one to expect when going to a place called a gastropub?
Typically, a gastropub concentrates on quality food while still providing a pub-like atmosphere, but critics say it takes away from the traditional pub feel.
This is a larger concept to brand your restaurant with, and when John Gurnee came to town, that's what he was looking to create.
A recent post by Girls on the Grid depicting how wonderful the Kupros Bistro is created a far different image in my mind than what I experienced.
I sat down at the bar with my food friends, including an experienced fromager, drinkers and a sous chef at one of the Sacramento area’s leading restaurants. We found a quiet neighborhood bar with a beautiful glass ceiling reminiscent of the one in the TV show “Cheers” and a middle-priced bar menu.
This place has a really homey feel with lots of dark wood, and anyone who remembers the costume shop that once stood where the bar now is will be awed.
On the third Saturday in September, we were greeted by a gaggle of beautiful hostesses. There were literally three or four of them in addition to five to seven wait staff members and what looked to be two or three front-of-the-house managers all milling around waiting to be of service.
This would be nothing worth remarking on if it hadn't taken so long to get a water refill and if our $26 cheese plate had been served by a person who knew what the cheeses were.
A cheese plate seems to be a luxury (given the price) instead of a set part of a menu in Sacramento – so when one is ordered – and at a high price by many cities’ standards – you would expect the person who serves it to you to be able to tell you what you’re getting.
"Here is a variety of cheeses, some nuts and a little honey," said the well-intentioned woman. When I asked what they were, she said, "I'm not sure, I'll ask," and then sent over the bartender, who told us the animals they were from with a lot of unsureness in her voice.
Regrettably, most of the cheeses were unremarkable, even with their lauded "honey and nut combo," but there was a wonderful gouda in the mix that had honey crystals in it. It was Holland's Family Farm’s Aged farmstead Gouda cheese from Thorp, Wisc. – Marieke Gouda Foenegreek – and is absolutely worth checking out.
Otherwise, we had a creative take on a Ruben sandwich, with duck instead of the normal pastrami or corned beef.
My only comment was that the duck was a little dry on the breast. This was helped by the wetness of the Russian dressing, but not much. Still, this is the first truly original take on a Ruben I've ever seen.
As for the bar list . . . I'm all about getting an exceptional drink for a ridiculously low price. I don't think this is a rarity in these frugal days. Gone is the time where how much you spend shows as a status symbol (hopefully), and now those people are looked at as chumps.
Why would I spend $9.50 on a classic cocktail made with medium-grade alcohol when I could walk four blocks and have the famous Chris Tucker make me a mind-blowing creation for about $8? I never want to be in a bar and think that I would prefer to be another place, which is both cheaper and better, which leads me to ask, why would I want to come back here?
There are a lot of good elements at Kupros, but the restaurant is pricing itself out of the market.
Gurnee is a great chef, and the establishment is beautiful, but as in many a place that's been opening of late, I feel there's a rush to get out there. The mentality is to OPEN, OPEN, OPEN, even if you’re not ready.
Kupros has a great cracking sample menu on its website, and then when you go in the restaurant, there is a more lackluster menu, with a $2 increase on EVERY price.
Where are the peanuts roasted in duck fat and sea salt and the lauded fried pickles? They are deep-fried pickle spears instead of the traditional deep-fried bread and butter pickles (where you get a little bit of sweet and salty).
I think with some price adjustment, increasing the bourbon selection (for me and every other classic cocktailer out there right now) and bringing back a knockout small-portion menu would snap this right into place, and as it's in walking distance from my house, have me frequenting it more than my pocketbook would like.
But I might be presumptuous. There was an official grand opening a couple of days ago, and there seemed to be a smart turnout, so maybe the tide is turning.
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